Witch Doctor Wall - Muddy Fingers
September 23-24th, 2006
Pax, Micah and I took advantage of this sunny fall weekend to go check
out a free climb on a buttress left of the main Witch Doctor Wall on Exfoliation
Dome. I had seen the feature a few years ago while climbing the Voodoo
Wall and had always wanted to go back and check it out.
Pax below Sunday Cruise and the Witch Doctor Route on the appraoch.
Hiking in was quick, and with more traffic up to the Witch Doctor side
in the past few years the trail was fairly easy to follow. We dropped
gear at the camp boulder and looked at the wall. We quickly spotted a
"splitter" high on the buttress and devised a plan to climb
to it. A good looking series of flakes and cracks seemed to lead in from
Muddy Fingers is located on the buttress just left of the summit (upper
Overview of the route, with fingers not yet muddied.
Pax and Micah at the base of the wall.
Dave starting the first pitch (5.9).
Higher on the first pitch.
Following. Pax (left) took a direct line.
Micah finishes the layback crux.
Pax starting the second pitch on a stout hand to fist crack (5.9).
Micah starting the third pitch up a steep corner (5.9).
Dave starting the fouth pitch (5.7 A1). With some cleaning it would be
Pax free climbing on the "Muddy Fingers" pitch (the 5th), 5.10b
A1. He would soon run into wet lichen and have to aid much of the pitch.
Following the 5th pitch. If the lichen was cleaned off this would be a
beautiful free climbing pitch.
A fun weekend of trad climbing with the true Darrington
experience. Thanks guys!