Outer Space with Marcus
July 23rd, 2002
Marcus and I tried to steal a sunny Tuesday ascent of Outer
Space before he returned to the East coast. Sure enough, it was totally
sunny. Well, at least for the exact times of the day that we weren't
climbing! (for a full write up of the route, see my
first climb of Outer Space)
Marcus at the base of the wall.
Marcus leading off on the first pitch. It soon began to rain.
Dave starts across the traverse. Photo by: Marcus.
The rain holds back just long enough for Marcus to lead the crux pitch.
Lightning Flashes accompany Marcus up to the top of the Pillar on pitch
Heading off into a land of perfect hands and chickenheads...
Dave following the 5th pitch. Photo by: Marcus.
There was a ton of fixed gear on the first handcrack pitch,
including a really stuck forged friend. I lead the finger crack variation
off of Library Ledge and it turned out that practically the whole crux
here was protected on fixed nuts. Crazy stuff!
Leading off on the second Shield crack pitch. Photo by: Marcus.
As I belayed Marcus up the last crack pitch (p 6) it began
to sprinkle. Then it began to rain, and hard. Slightly worried that the
next thunder head was approaching over our heads, Marcus zoomed up the
last bit to the top.
Wild knobs on top of Outer Space.
We did the descent without rapping. Here are a few key things to making
your descent off the Wall pleasant:
- At the top, do not descend the first gully. Instead, cross the first
gully and begin descending the rib on it's right side. There is some
short downclimbing (4th class) but soon it leads to a nice trail.
- Follow the loose trail down towards the creek (water here). Head down
hill after crossing a short slab.
- Continue down and far to the left across slabs until you are in a
steep gully on the far left side with a large tree partway down. Climb
down past the tree and take a trail off left around the base of a huge
(house sized) boulder.
- Follow this trail across the ledge system until you come to a gully.
Don't go down the gully, but rather look for two white "bunny ears"
of rock just across a dihedral-gully in front of you.
- Once past the bunny ears you are at the base of Orbit. Continue down
scrambly ledges back to the base of the climb.