Point 8,600 - North Face
"Base Camp Peak" was a small peak just to the South of our camp. One hot and sunny afternoon, while Phil and Greg went out to checkout Flightpath Peak for a possible rock climb, Marcus and I decided to finally give this a try. Besides, the rainy day we'd been saving it for wasn't looking like a possibility!
Marcus approaching Base Camp peak on a HOT day.
The walk over to the schrund crossing was quick, probably only 10 minutes. I was smart, and let marcus carry the pack AND kick steps up to the base of the climb (sorry Marcus :).
Dave climbing the small bridge over the 'schrund.
I carefully plod my way up and over the bridge of the schrund, and then ran the rest of the rope out to a belay below the bare ice comes out on the face. The angle steepens considerably here, from 45 degrees to about 60. I set a quick belay in the snow, and brought Marcus up.
Dave nearing the top of the first pitch. (45 degree snow)
Marcus starting off on the steep, second pitch.
Marcus headed off, and lead brilliantly up the steep slope. Probably the steepest we climbed on the trip, come to think of it. The ice was in excellent shape, and he made short work of it, placing only three pieces in the entire pitch. I came up and took over the lead, being glad to be out of the bulls-eye of falling ice from above.
Marcus on the steep ice. (60 degrees)
Dave and Marcus on the second pitch. Photo: Phil Fortier
Dave starting off on the third pitch. There is ice under there!
Our route brought us to the tip of the peak, away from the cornices over the rest of the face. This was good, for not long after our climb, these cornices started collapsing during the warm afternoons.
Dave sitting in the summit rocks, belaying Marcus over the top.
Two wackos we saw on the summit. What's with that guy's nose shield???
Marcus and I hiked up some scree up to the summit, and enjoyed some well earned rest. We'd been working hard! (all 600 feet of elevation gain really took it out of us) We descended to the West, following the ridge, and trying to stay on the scree. The snow was so soft now that we slipped in to it past our wait with each step. Crossing the schrund on the way down in these conditions would be really scary, so we descided to glissade over it. This worked out pretty well, as I arrested our movement when Marcus crossed over. A quick walk back to camp and we were enjoying the cold beers and pizza that Phil and Greg had brought out for us. err... umm... yeah.
Phil and Greg tried to climb the route later on in the trip, but the snow conditions had turned far too soft for safety. Greg climbed up onto the schrund crossing, tried in vain to get any of his shafts to stick in the slush, then came down. A couple days later, the crossing collapsed completely!