Pigeon Spire - West Ridge

August 2003

Pigeon Spire's West Ridge is the best 5.4 climb I have ever done. With an amazing position, spectacular rock, fun climbing, and a scenic approach, this climb is a true classic as well as a heck of a good time.

Marcus and I roped together and Emily and Easton roped together for the ridge, which we all running belayed. This seemed like a comforatable and quick way to ascend, even though most of the climbing is technically very easy. The only route finding that was a little tricky is at the second visable notch in the ridge, a little ways down from the summit. Here, if you hit it strait on, you are faced with a steep downclimb of a layback flake. Instead of rapping or down climbing this, it is possible to pass the tower on the left and climb down a broken but easy chimney.

Approaching Pigeon Spire. The West ridge is the right hand skyline.

Emily leading high on the ridge.
Photo by Easton.

Marcus contemplating the exposure.

Emily belaying Easton as she downclimbs on the descent.
Photo by Marcus

Emily and some cool runnels in the ice of the Crescent Glacier.

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