Pigeon Spire - West Ridge

August 2003

Pigeon Spire's West Ridge is the best 5.4 climb I have ever done. With an amazing position, spectacular rock, fun climbing, and a scenic approach, this climb is a true classic as well as a heck of a good time.

Marcus and I roped together and Emily and Easton roped together for the ridge, which we all running belayed. This seemed like a comforatable and quick way to ascend, even though most of the climbing is technically very easy. The only route finding that was a little tricky is at the second visable notch in the ridge, a little ways down from the summit. Here, if you hit it strait on, you are faced with a steep downclimb of a layback flake. Instead of rapping or down climbing this, it is possible to pass the tower on the left and climb down a broken but easy chimney.